Bloody French

Like corduroy, French cuisine has slid steadily out of fashion since the '70s. So, how will a mentality and menu as self-consciously Gallic as an Eiffel Tower postcard go down in Notting Hill, where Thai-fusion gastropubs rule supreme? Roquefort, fig and walnut salads precede beef bourguignon, which precedes tarte tatin. But whilst we have to grudgingly admit that our flared ancestors were right about the flavours, they were wrong about the cords.

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