The Royal Oak

This tiny pub feels like it should be perched on some cliff in the Outer Hebrides, not nestled among bookshop and sandwich chain-stores. It makes for a surreal alternative to some of Edinburgh's newer, trendier and infinitely less interesting bars; offering an array of no-frills booze, impromptu folk performances and quite spectacular beards. Although not one for the claustrophobics: the main bar only needs about twenty-something people in it resembles a particularly riotous ceilidh in a retirement home.

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