It is a brazen soul that tampers with the small, round, cake-shaped pivot upon which Welsh identity turns. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, as they say. But the culinary wizards behind Fabulous Welshcakes have achieved something so monumental that sampling one is like witnessing the invention of the wheel itself, first hand. The parcels are stunners, be they baked with cranberries, pistachios or dark chocolate. And, as if that isn't already enough jazzing up of our national identity, they also run a gift shop which doesn't sell inflatable daffodils.