Upstairs, Brixton
A hidden gem in Brixton's back streets
Review
Upstairs is exactly what it sounds like: up stairs. When you ring the
doorbell on the corner of a Brixton street, you don’t really expect to
be welcomed into a candlelit gourmet restaurant but at Upstairs, that’s
exactly what happens. The moment you walk through the front door you
are met with flickering tea lights and distant jazz music. A few
flights of stairs up, past a quirky ceiling light and a well-stocked
bar, you’ll find a well-laid-out, intimate dining room with a pretty
fireplace and a view over Brixton.
The menu, a choice of three starters, mains and desserts, changes every two weeks in accordance with the season, meaning that in theory you could come 26 times a year and experience a different menu each time (and believe us, we would if we could!). Itchy was also impressed by the cocktail and wine list, opting for a glass of Syrah Red and a refreshing pear cocktail called a Helsinki Lifter.
After a cute dish of lentil and onion “amuse-bouche”, we sampled the Poached Salmon and Red Cabbage Gazpacho, and the Arancini, Broccoli and Bocconcini (Try saying that last one aloud?) starters. Both were a beautiful combination of fresh flavours and textures, showcasing the chef’s unique style. The inclusion of small cubes of flavoured jelly was adventurous but tasty, especially when eaten as part of the dish rather than as an afterthought.
The mains really shone. The Barbary Duck and Blood Orange was accompanied by crunchy green beans and kohlrabi. We know what you’re thinking – what the blazes is kohlrabi? We didn’t know either, but after a quick Google we are proud to announce that it is a German turnip, which is supposedly a hybrid mix of cabbage and turnip. We didn’t need this information, however, to know that it was absolutely delicious. The Giant Couscous and Chachouka Sauce had a lovely smokey taste and made a great change from the normal options that vegetarians are used to being offered at every other restaurant, ever. (Oooh yes please, I’ll have risotto. Again.)
Itchy was relieved that we weren’t too full to move on to dessert and swiftly picked Rhubarb and Lemon Baked Alaska along with White Choco Mouse with Seville Orange Sorbet. Both were presented beautifully, with additions of fresh fruit. We’re sorry to say that we were a bit chicken with the sorbet… it was very bitter and we ended up neglecting it in favour of the much sweeter chocolate mousse. Itchy was particularly impressed by the puffed wheat pieces and pomegranate seeds on top of the mousse, which provided a tasty extra dimension to the dessert.
The set menu gives diners the option of two courses for £27, three for £33 or four plus a cheese course for £38. It’s not cheap, but it is very, very good food. With finest ingredients coming from all over the UK - fish fresh from the South West coast, beef from Scotland, lamb from Wales, pork from Gloucester, fruit and vegetables from New Covent Garden Market - it's worth the price.
We would recommend this gem of a restaurant for those occasions where you really want to impress someone with your insider knowledge of Brixton. Don’t tell them where you’re going, lead them up Acre Lane and ring the doorbell, then watch their face as they discover what lies up the stairs.
The menu, a choice of three starters, mains and desserts, changes every two weeks in accordance with the season, meaning that in theory you could come 26 times a year and experience a different menu each time (and believe us, we would if we could!). Itchy was also impressed by the cocktail and wine list, opting for a glass of Syrah Red and a refreshing pear cocktail called a Helsinki Lifter.
After a cute dish of lentil and onion “amuse-bouche”, we sampled the Poached Salmon and Red Cabbage Gazpacho, and the Arancini, Broccoli and Bocconcini (Try saying that last one aloud?) starters. Both were a beautiful combination of fresh flavours and textures, showcasing the chef’s unique style. The inclusion of small cubes of flavoured jelly was adventurous but tasty, especially when eaten as part of the dish rather than as an afterthought.
The mains really shone. The Barbary Duck and Blood Orange was accompanied by crunchy green beans and kohlrabi. We know what you’re thinking – what the blazes is kohlrabi? We didn’t know either, but after a quick Google we are proud to announce that it is a German turnip, which is supposedly a hybrid mix of cabbage and turnip. We didn’t need this information, however, to know that it was absolutely delicious. The Giant Couscous and Chachouka Sauce had a lovely smokey taste and made a great change from the normal options that vegetarians are used to being offered at every other restaurant, ever. (Oooh yes please, I’ll have risotto. Again.)
Itchy was relieved that we weren’t too full to move on to dessert and swiftly picked Rhubarb and Lemon Baked Alaska along with White Choco Mouse with Seville Orange Sorbet. Both were presented beautifully, with additions of fresh fruit. We’re sorry to say that we were a bit chicken with the sorbet… it was very bitter and we ended up neglecting it in favour of the much sweeter chocolate mousse. Itchy was particularly impressed by the puffed wheat pieces and pomegranate seeds on top of the mousse, which provided a tasty extra dimension to the dessert.
The set menu gives diners the option of two courses for £27, three for £33 or four plus a cheese course for £38. It’s not cheap, but it is very, very good food. With finest ingredients coming from all over the UK - fish fresh from the South West coast, beef from Scotland, lamb from Wales, pork from Gloucester, fruit and vegetables from New Covent Garden Market - it's worth the price.
We would recommend this gem of a restaurant for those occasions where you really want to impress someone with your insider knowledge of Brixton. Don’t tell them where you’re going, lead them up Acre Lane and ring the doorbell, then watch their face as they discover what lies up the stairs.
Tags
unusual |
to do |
recommended |
specialist |
London |
independent |
expensive |
dinner |
dessert |
cocktail |
classic |
best |
alternative |
